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Windex: Talking About Handheld Gaming PCs

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
I’ve been aware of the Steamdeck for a while, but it’s not been available in my country so I haven’t been paying it much attention. Recently I became aware of the existence of other types of handheld gaming PCs and before long, I had one:

T7c7H7A.jpg


This is a GPD Win 3, the i7 model. To be honest, I barely know what an i7 is - I stopped paying attention to computer specs in the late 90s and I have been happy that way for many years. Essentially what this thing is is a PC that’s shaped like a Switch - it’s about the same height and width, though twice as thick. Plus, it has this:

DU1aOx5.jpg


Yep, Windows 11. Oh, also a keyboard. The keyboard is a bit naff, to be honest. Sometimes I use the on-screen touch keyboard instead, to save on working the sliding mechanism too much. Anyway, the main controls are the game pad bits on either side - it’s got two sticks, a d-pad, start and select, four face buttons, and two shoulders on each side. Plus a fingerprint sensor for unlocking it and a tiny button dedicated to bringing up the windows Xbox interface which I’ll probably try to remap. On the left side of the console is a switch to go between controller and mouse mode - in mouse mode the right stick moves the mouse, the shoulder buttons do the clicks (sadly, not the way I’d choose - L1 is left click, L2 middle button, R1 is right click, and R2 increases movement speed. I’d rather have left and right click on R1 and R2 respectively which would make it easier to use with one hand and free up my left for the keyboard). The d-pad and face buttons get allocated to the scroll wheel, HOME and END, and the arrow keys. It basically works but it’s not spectacular, and I’ll probably look to set up a controller-based launcher for when I’m just using it to play games. Though I may also use this thing for other PC stuff. I’m pretty sure it’s a lot more powerful than my decade old desktop.

LaYYbZB.jpg


Here’s the dock - the base unit has one USB-A socket at the top and a USB-C socket (or thunderbolt? I haven’t kept up with sockets, either) at the bottom, through which the dock can connect power, HDMI, and more USBs. This was useful for example when I needed to connect a USB stick with a large casing that would have stopped me from sliding up to get to the keyboard. Also good for hooking up to the TV. The built in screen is 720p, less than some of the competing models, but high enough that I’ve turned up the text size in windows to be able to see things clearly.

Also visible here are the air inlet/outlets - air goes in through the vents in the back and goes out through the ones at the top. I often rest this thing on my leg when I’m using it and block the intake, hopefully that won’t cause too many problems. There are also a couple of extra customisable buttons on the back, the slightly lighter coloured bumpy bits near the edges. By default one of these is ESC and the other is CTRL-ALT-DEL. I’ve found them hard to hit when I want to hit them and easy to hit when I don’t want to.

OylEiD9.jpg


And here it is running ZeroRanger in tate mode. This didn’t work as well as I wanted it to - I’d been hoping to reassign the d-pad to have the shot controls on it, but it turns out the analogue stick is linked to the pad in the assignment - not sure if that’s the game’s fault or the device’s. Anyway, I was able to rotate the controls so the stick works as it should in tate but I have to have my left hand at the bottom of the device on the stick and my right at the top on the buttons. Which is probably more stable than trying to hold the whole thing at one edge. It’s a bit heavier than a wonderswan.

So anyway, this thing seems pretty neat so far. I really don’t have a good grip on PC specs but I think it’s less powerful than the Steamdeck and many of the other handheld PCs out there - it’s about a year old, for one. And I think the retail price is higher than the deck, too. I got this one second hand for what I thought was a good price, and I’m happy with it so far. Now I have to figure out how to tell whether it meets spec for more demanding games before I buy them, I guess.

Although it seems pretty good, there are some things to watch with this model. Apparently some of them shipped with viruses - the speculation online is someone in QA was infecting them during testing. I wiped mine’s hard drive and started fresh, so hopefully even if there were viruses they’re gone now. There’s also a production issue where some were made with the wrong wi-fi chip, including mine. Again, I don’t understand PC specs, but apparently my wifi is not going to be as good as advertised. Oh well. I thought at first that the battery was rubbish - it barely seemed to last at all. Now that I’m playing games on it instead of installing the operating system and copying over big files, it seems to last much longer and I’m not getting as much heat out the vents.

Aside from playing games on it, one thing I was wanting this for was accessing my MiSTer’s file system through the network without having to run back and forwards from my TV to my desktop. I’ve been putting stuff on the MiSTer using wget in its Linux command line, so it’s good to be able to use a browser from the couch to get things off GitHub or wherever instead of typing in their very long web addresses.
 

Becksworth

Aging Hipster Dragon Dad
The current non Steamdeck hotness circulating the sites/YouTube channels that talk about this kind of thing is the Aya Neo Air. Not as powerful GPU as the Steamdeck and costs more, but better CPU, has an OLED screen, and is almost as small as a Switch Lite.

There are supposed to be several devices with a comparable GPU to the Steamdeck later this year/early next year, some using Steam OS 3.0 even, so that's also something people may want to look into.
 
I personally have been working my way through Windows handhelds since the GPD Win (1). I've had the Win, Win 2, Win Max, now the Win 3 and have the Win Max 2 on order.

As a PC enthusiast and tinkerer, I don't have a problem with the effort sometimes required to get things working well and it's shocking what WILL run on an iGPU these days. And as I've said in other threads, I prefer a Windows experience because horsepower aside, I know my games run on it. For my own purposes it's nice to have a device that can run every single Zelda game.

I found the dock absolutely necessary for initial setup but once everything was loaded and configured and I slapped PlayNite on there, the "full screen" mode is completely gamepad friendly. Set that to launch with Windows and boom, I'm ready to roll.

My only caveat of the Win3 so far is I have found that as I age, the 5.5" screen just doesn't cut it for me for games after say the N64/PSX era. The 7" of my Switch OLED feels the minimum for things like that. But hey, the next one in the hopper is a 10" screen...and weighs 2 pounds.
 

Paul le Fou

24/7 lofi hip hop man to study/relax to
(He)
I honestly had no idea there were alternatives to the steamdeck out there or being made, though it is of course obvious. I'm still interested in a way to get through some of my steam backlog highlights without having to sit at my computer desk, so I'm intrigued!
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
it's shocking what WILL run on an iGPU these days

I am not enjoying reacquainting myself with the concept of system requirements after so many years on console, but the simple answer in most cases seems to be “Integrated graphics won’t cut it”. That said, here’s someone running Elden Ring on one. This thing definitely doesn’t meet the claimed minimum requirements for that. Maybe I’ll give it a shot once it goes on sale.

I’m finding it frustrating looking at minimum requirements - they’ll say brand word acronym number for AMD and Nvidea cards, but these things don’t mean anything to me and don’t seem to have obvious meanings - higher numbers don’t necessarily mean better so far as I can tell. Anyway, as I said the simple answer is that the Intel Iris Xe in the GPD Win isn’t as good as any of them.

Anyways, I’ve put steam on there now. Haven’t bought anything yet, just put on retroarch and been fiddling with that. I’ve only used per-system emulators in the past, but I’d like to get set up to a point of being able to use this device through the game pad controls as much as possible. Maybe I’ll try playnite if steam isn’t proving up to it for me.
 
A lot of "minimum specs" are relative fabrications and most games will say they don't support iGPUs just so they don't have to support them. Thankfully with the Win 3 and other popular devices, if the game is at least mildly famous, you can find a youtube video or a reddit thread letting you know if it runs and at what settings.

I actually use the console generation rule of thumb; if a game was released in the XBOne/PS4 era or earlier, there's a good bet the Iris XE can handle it at some level of settings.

Shocking no one, Spider-Man Remastered does not run well. That one's staying on the desktop (or in-home streaming).
 

Regulus

Sir Knightbot
In a great deal of cases "minimum specs" is really "minimum specs that we actually tested and can reasonably guarantee will run the game".
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
I’m finding the battery life a bit inconsistent - I’m sure I had it down below 50 yesterday, then when I turned it on today it was 78, then I used it briefly and the next time I turned on it was at 6%.

Anyway, I tried something a bit more demanding (I think) than what I’ve been using it for so far: Stray. I don’t think this is a super high end game, but it is at least a recent one, and it runs just fine on the default settings. I think the relatively low resolution of the screen (720p) helps there. It did get a bit warm to the touch, but not alarmingly so. I’ve seen videos of people playing games with like an overlay at the top listing component temperatures, battery level, frame rate and stuff like that, might have to figure out how to get one of those. At a minimum it’d be nice to have a quick way to check the battery.

One thing that’s a slight issue - I was playing with the charger attached because of the battery being low, and the plug on the charger for some reason has a really bright LED in it that made the screen dim by comparison (see the first photo in this thread). Might have to cover that up somehow.
 

Torzelbaum

????? LV 13 HP 292/ 292
(he, him, his)
One thing that’s a slight issue - I was playing with the charger attached because of the battery being low, and the plug on the charger for some reason has a really bright LED in it that made the screen dim by comparison (see the first photo in this thread). Might have to cover that up somehow.
Maybe a dumb question but couldn't you just turn that cable upside down? Or is that LED on both sides?
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
It’s on both sides. When I cover it up I might leave one side exposed to face downwards, though. Baffling design decision.
 
I bought a mess of braided USB C to C cables with right angle plug at one end for devices like this. No light and much lower profile if I want to play while charging. Works on my Switch too.
 

Beowulf

Son of The Answer Man
(He/Him)
I've been sticking to the cheaper handhelds that can only manage the older systems or low-power Android games, but I'll admit to being curious about these things.
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
I forget if I mentioned, Beowulf, but what set me on the path to getting this was searching for one of the handhelds you mentioned and getting results relating to one of the ayaneo handhelds. This one is certainly a pretty good emulator box, but it doesn’t have the array of bootlegs built in, sadly.

I think I might look into a right angle usb-c extension for charging while playing. I got maybe an hour and a half on battery playing Stray today, so it seems likely I’ll be using it plugged in a lot.
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
What do you plug the other end of that in to? I was thinking of getting one with a right angle plug on one end and a socket on the other and just hooking it up to the end of the existing charger. I also looked at getting one of those magnetic connector things so I wouldn’t have to plug/unplug the cable, since damaging the usb socket would turn the device into a paperweight, but apparently those aren’t all that safe from a static electricity point of view because they expose the pins. I dunno. I thought USB was supposed to make plugging things together easier.
 

Beowulf

Son of The Answer Man
(He/Him)
Is Stray particularly battery-intensive? On other games, if you fully charge and then play, how long a battery life are you actually getting? Because I would consider that a big strike against one of these things. I can get four hours and change out of the Anbernic RG552 and almost six hours out of the Anbernic RG350, which I'd consider my favorites of the retro handhelds I've tried so far.
 
What do you plug the other end of that in to? I was thinking of getting one with a right angle plug on one end and a socket on the other and just hooking it up to the end of the existing charger. I also looked at getting one of those magnetic connector things so I wouldn’t have to plug/unplug the cable, since damaging the usb socket would turn the device into a paperweight, but apparently those aren’t all that safe from a static electricity point of view because they expose the pins. I dunno. I thought USB was supposed to make plugging things together easier.
The other end just goes in the charger brick you should've gotten with the device. It's a regular C to C cable, just like what the device normally uses to connect the brick to the device.
Is Stray particularly battery-intensive? On other games, if you fully charge and then play, how long a battery life are you actually getting? Because I would consider that a big strike against one of these things. I can get four hours and change out of the Anbernic RG552 and almost six hours out of the Anbernic RG350, which I'd consider my favorites of the retro handhelds I've tried so far.
One of the knocks against these devices is anything that pushes the device to the limits you're looking at sub-2 hour runtimes. Just a fact of the power draw required even by these "efficient" parts at max power. I'm almost always playing plugged in so it's not a downside for me, but that's not everyone's use-case.
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
I got HWiNFO and RTSS to let me start monitoring the system - I’m kind of interested in stuff like frame rate, processor usage, and temperature, but my main goal was to find a convenient way to get the battery percentage onscreen. Windows 11 doesn’t seem to offer a way to have a percentage show in the taskbar (just an icon), and the Xbox game bar will show a battery icon for controllers but not the system itself. It’s not a huge hassle to click on the icon in the taskbar and get the percentage, but the mouse control on this thing being either through the touchscreen or the sticks makes it less convenient than it could be. I’m not sure if the monitoring programs are now going to be gathering data in the background and draining my battery even faster, though. Hopefully they’re only actually doing stuff while I have the OSD up.

Running Stray apparently puts the GPU at 100% and the CPU about 40, I can’t find anything that tells me the fan speed but it certainly is spinning and the air coming out the vent is warm. I haven’t spent a long time on it, but I was playing some Ico in PSCX2 and getting below 20% each for CPU and GPU and less obvious fan activity, so I imagine the battery life should be much better.

Regarding power cables, the charger brick that came with mine seems to have a fixed cord coming out of it, or at least one that’s hard enough to remove that I’ve given up for fear of breaking it.
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
Elden Ring went on sale, so I’ve been trying it out on my Win 3. I had the system set to low TDP and low fan to try to reduce power use, and on those settings with the game visual quality on high I was getting frame rates about 30 on 720p using the handheld screen. When I switched to my TV and set it to 1080p that dropped to low 20s. Turning the quality down improved the frame rate but made the game look pretty bad. Fortunately for me I don’t seem to be too susceptible to frame rates - I only got those rates using monitoring tools, I wasn’t able to tell the difference in terms of gameplay. I went into the BIOS and turned the TDP up to normal and the fan on max, which greatly increased fan noise and got my frame rate up to mid-30s, but I can’t really tell the difference.

I found the tiny text near-unreadable in handheld mode. I might get some magnifying reading glasses, see if that helps.
 
Having owned a number of handhelds that will run console experiences over the last decade, I have determined that 7" is the minimum screen my eyes need to be comfortable. The 10" of my Win Max 2 is PERFECT but not everyone wants a device that clunky.
 

Yimothy

Red Plane
(he/him)
I was playing on my Win 3 docked today for about five or ten minutes when the TV screen kind of flashed and went blank. When I picked the PC up it had turned itself off. When I turned it back on I could not get a signal through the dock to the TV. It’s still able to charge through the dock, so the USB C port isn’t completely broken, and it works fine as a handheld, but I haven’t figured out yet if the problem getting an HDMI signal is the PC or the dock. Hopefully the latter, because it can be replaced more easily. If the PC’s USB C port dies, the whole machine is useless.

Edit: After trying turning it off and on again, using different hdmi ports and cables, removing my hdmi switchbox from the line, and everything else I could think of, I managed to fix it: I bought the cheapest usb-c to usb-a/hdmi/usb-c hub I could find, plugged it in, and I had a picture back on my TV. Then I tried reconnecting the dock and plugging the PC into that, and now it works again, so I don’t need the little hub I bought. I dunno if whatever the problem was just went away by itself or if connecting through the other hub reminded the computer of how it was supposed to work or what, but I can now use my old setup exactly as it was again.
 
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