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  #121  
Old 10-27-2017, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Yimothy View Post
I think S-video requires a mod (supposedly pretty easy, though), and I don't think my TV has an S-video input on it unfortunately.
Oh, you're right. SEGA gave the MD/Genesis native RGB capabilities but not S-video. I say go ahead and jump in with an RGB cable, then.
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  #122  
Old 10-27-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ArugulaZ View Post
I don't think the classic Xbox d-pad is as bad as the Xbox 360 d-pad (what could be?), but I'll admit that I use an adapter for most games. I'm using something called a ForceBox, but this one offers dual compatibility with the Xbox and GameCube.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Playstation...-/390308521137

Plug it in, and bam, all your PS2 controllers become fair game. I'm using some ancient-ass Hori joystick right now... I've had better sticks, but this one holds up under a lot of abuse.
I always forget about the adapters for like every console. I really need to look into getting a few. I wish I'd have gotten one of the SNES to Wii adapters back when Wii Virtual Console was a thing - I have an SNES Classic now, but I don't even have my Wii hooked up anymore.

Although what I really want is a Retropie built into a Wii U controller, but I don't have anywhere near the technical expertise to make one of those... plus that's a different thread.
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  #123  
Old 10-27-2017, 10:18 AM
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Although what I really want is a Retropie built into a Wii U controller, but I don't have anywhere near the technical expertise to make one of those... plus that's a different thread.
You could also just buy like Big Brain Academy on WiiU eshop and do some webkit tinkering
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  #124  
Old 11-01-2017, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Yimothy View Post
for now my hi-fi solution is gonna be a six meter long RCA cable for the composite image.
I got a long cable, hooked it up and ran composite, and from across the room it looked pretty nice actually. But it did show some of the problems of converting the analog signal to digital incorrectly. I was playing Steel Empire, which frames itself as a film based on a book, and the intro has a flicker effect to simulate an old projector. It achieves this by alternating the image on and off from frame to frame. On the original system this works, but my TVís upscaler processes the image wrong*: an analog TV displays 30 fps, but each frame is made by drawing the odd numbered horizontal lines followed by the even numbered lines meaning actually 60 images are drawn per second, each of which is half a frame. Old consoles achieved 60fps by removing the signal to switch between odd and even lines, so the odd numbered lines are refreshed 60 times a second, and the even lines are not drawn (which is where scan lines come from). This is 240p. My TV doesnít recognise that this is happening, so it alternates the lines (480i), which usually I canít tell the difference but when a flicker effect is used it means suddenly you have scan lines. So instead of the intro flickering it just has blank lines through it. When you get hit and are supposed to flash, instead your sprite gets blank lines while everything else looks normal. Itís noticeable but not the end of the world.

I tried it through the component port (if you plug a composite signal into the green socket of a component input you get a black and white picture with vertical lines in it, dunno why) and the flicker seemed to work, so if I ever get my hands on some genesis component cables I might be set.

*Technical details may not be accurate.
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  #125  
Old 03-03-2018, 08:22 AM
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My latest quest to drain my checking account has me attempting to build the Ultimate GBA Experience: a first-run GameCube (with component-out), the Game Boy Advance Player, a Hori GameCube Digital Controller (the one that looks like an SNES controller with GameCube buttons), and GameCube component cables.
Six years later I have finally succumbed to my chronic brain-fever and bought this for an embarrassing amount of money:



On the plus side it's given me a great excuse to reattempt my abandoned Mother 3 playthrough on Game Boy Player (running Swiss via an SD card reader in the GC memory card slot, along with Game Boy Interface for nice clean 240p output to my xRGB-mini):





In conclusion, if you're a fool like me who insists on playing GBC/GBA titles on a home television and don't mind spending several hundred dollars on supporting A/V equipment and retro gaming hardware, then this is a pretty good option!
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  #126  
Old 03-03-2018, 01:24 PM
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God Mother 3 looks so good, if Nintendo doesn't release it this year I'm definitely going to crack and get a repo cart



I say this every year...
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  #127  
Old 03-03-2018, 05:56 PM
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man, I have a GBA player and that cable. Maybe i should buy a repo cart ...
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  #128  
Old 03-03-2018, 09:10 PM
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Either that, or if you're not a stickler for having a repro, you could get a cheap flash cart like the 3-in-1 Expansion Pack for DS. Well, that requires a DS flash cart too, so maybe that's not the best solution. That's how I run all my GBA games, anyway, and there are a few DS translations worth giving a go, too.

There's also the Everdrive GBA, but getting the flash carts above are cheaper. I'm sure the user experience is nicer, though, on the ED.
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  #129  
Old 03-17-2018, 03:08 AM
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HD Retrovision are restocking their shop in about six hours. They sell SNES and Mega Drive component cables and a few other things. Apparently last time they had stock it lasted for a few months, so I donít think thereís a big rush to order (also they recommend testing your tvís compatibility before ordering which is probably a good idea).
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  #130  
Old 03-17-2018, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
There's also the Everdrive GBA, but getting the flash carts above are cheaper. I'm sure the user experience is nicer, though, on the ED.
I used an EZ-Flash IV GBA cart years ago and it was pretty awful. Its plastic shell was poorly molded and snapped apart constantly, and if I remember correctly, the cart only recognizes microSD cards up to 2GB (which are tough to even find these days). Plus I had to patch every GBA game with a crappy proprietary patching utility program before they'd work on the thing.

Conversely, the GBA Everdrive allows you to just drag-and-drop your ROMs onto the SD card as you like. Alhough it lacks all the bells and whistles of more advanced products like SD2SNES, the GBA ED is definitely the way to go for playing patched ROMs on real hardware.
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  #131  
Old 03-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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Heck, now you've got me wanting one.
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  #132  
Old 03-17-2018, 03:40 PM
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I got my Super Nt in and it occurred to me that aside from Soul Blazer, Earthbound, and a Super Fami copy of Chrono Trigger, all of my SNES games are in storage.
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  #133  
Old 03-17-2018, 05:29 PM
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As I mentioned in another thread, don't buy a Genesis Flashback HD.

As I didn't mention in another thread, I just got the SCART cable for my actual Genesis, and the results are mixed. I don't know if it's the cable or the converter I'm using, but pixels are soft around the edges and there's dot crawl on the screen when it fades to black. Maybe I should try this with a smaller monitor, I dunno. Probably wouldn't hurt to have better games to test than crappy Ballz 3D, too. I've got like twenty or thirty Genesis games in MI, but here? Just Ballz. Yeesh.
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  #134  
Old 03-20-2018, 09:22 AM
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The HDRetrovision store was in stock again when I checked. If they still have stock in a month I might get an RGB cable for Genesis.
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  #135  
Old 03-24-2018, 12:26 PM
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Yesterday Voultar refreshed his stock of N64 RGB mod kits on his storefront page, so I placed an order for one. Unfortunately he only accepts Google Pay, which has been a royal pain in the ass for me to try and set up due to their insane verification process. Regardless, if I can manage to install the mod myself (video guide here), all my consoles will be connected via either RGB, component or HDMI cables. After that I suppose all that's left will be to finally buy an El Gato and start streaming some retro games on real hardware. And maybe track down a PVM for a reasonable price...
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  #136  
Old 03-30-2018, 09:17 AM
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Default I have spent way too much money on mega drive accessories lately

So my HD Retrovision mega drive component cable arrived the other day. I've only had time to fire it up briefly, but I took a couple pictures (the first one is not from a console):



This is Steel Empire. At the top is a picture I took from HG101 which I assume came from an emulator, just for reference. In the middle is what I got with the component cable from my Nomad, which I tried out first because its AV out port is easier to get to than on the normal console. I was pretty alarmed when I fired it up: it looks like a smoothing filter in an emulator - yuck! At the bottom is from my Mega Drive - it's not perfect, but the pixels are pretty well defined. This is really zoomed in, obviously (also the colour is all blown out because I took these pictures on my phone without spending much time on it). I think it's pretty good. Wish I'd taken a shot on composite first for comparison, though.

I'm not sure why the nomad has that filtery look to it. It's got a screen replacement mod in it, which I think piggybacks its signal from the AV out socket, so maybe it's putting out a weaker signal and getting more distorted. One thing it did have going for it was that the flicker effect was working, while on the MD I got scanlines when things were supposed to flicker. Maybe that's because it's an NTSC copy of the game and I'm running it on a PAL MD so it doesn't sync properly? Dunno.



Here's Bub from SMS Bubble Bobble. It's a little more zoomed out than the above shots. I've never managed to get my copy of Bubble Bobble to work on a mega drive before, but this was running through my new Power Base FM, which in addition to its FM synthesizer has a BIOS that's supposed to improve compatibility with some games, apparently including BB. I'm pretty pleased about that. BB isn't one of the games with FM sound though. I've tried it on a couple that do have it, it's pretty neat. Oddly, at least one of my games uses both FM synth and the normal SMS beep-and-booper. I played Wonder Boy in Monster Land, and the music was all FM but the sound effects were PSG. Unfortunately the PSG seems to be mixed higher than the FM. Not sure if that can be fixed. Another problem with it is that the FM sound doesn't work on the (SMS modified) Nomad. The games run fine, but are silent unless I disable the FM synth and just have the normal sound. Bit of a shame. Apparently the MD cart port has audio signal pins which the power base FM runs the FM sound to, and they aren't functional in the nomad.
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  #137  
Old 03-30-2018, 10:21 AM
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Dat Bub is lookin' fiiiiine

I'm no Sega expert, but I've definitely heard about different revisions of the Genesis having somewhat different sound hardware that can affect the audio output.
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  #138  
Old 03-30-2018, 04:40 PM
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I wound up getting a Super Retro Cade after looking at the reviews and watching the system in action. It doesn't run everything perfectly (Midnight Resistance and Double Dragon have issues, apparently) but it seems to offer much better performance than the Genesis Flashback HD I bought a month ago. Games are evidently pretty easy to add to the unit as well... just drop them on an SD card along with a picture and you're good to go. It plays games for a lot of different formats... NES, Super NES, Genesis, and arcade among others.

I considered a Raspberry Pi, but... I dunno. Something about it is just repellent to me. Too much DIY involved, I guess.
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  #139  
Old 03-30-2018, 07:41 PM
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I took another couple of pictures. Sonic 2 looks pretty good! The horizontal bands of light and dark (thereís one across Sonicís eyes and another at his forehead, for example) I think are the result of taking a photo of a tv screen. I couldnít see them just looking at the screen.



Hereís an example of it not working right: the emerald is supposed to flicker, being visible on alternate frames. Instead, itís a static image with a comb effect from being drawn on alternate rows of pixels. I think thatís the TVís fault, but itís strange that it doesnít seem to happen when I plug in the nomad.
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  #140  
Old 05-10-2018, 06:42 AM
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What is this I hear about them making a new Analogue Super Nt with components, or some component adapter for the current Super Nt?
I ask because they are taking preorders again.
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  #141  
Old 05-23-2018, 02:13 AM
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Iím thinking about region modding my Mega Drive to go from PAL only to switch between PAL/NTSC/Japan. I have a converter cart that lets me bypass region locks, but putting in a switch would allow games to run at 60Hz instead of 50, and I hope would fix a few other issues: the broken flickering I mentioned a few posts back, the image projecting a bit too far to the left and cutting off part of the screen, and PAL letterboxing. Being able to switch to Japanese region should help with some SMS game issues too, allowing some games to be played with an MD controller and also allowing the FM soundtrack to play for a couple.

My hesitation though is that switching a 50Hz console to 60 breaks the colour output over composite. Apparently the RGB output is still ok. I use cables from HD Retrovision, which convert the RGB signal to component, so I think it should be fine, but I wondered if anyone here knows for sure one way or the other before I break out the soldering iron?
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  #142  
Old 05-26-2018, 08:45 AM
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I've done a quick mod to my Mega Drive. It now functions as a Genesis. The plan is to put in a three position switch that will make it go between PAL/NA/JP regions, but I didn't have a lot of time and I wanted to make sure it was going to work at 60Hz before doing too much work, so for now it's just changed to US. Here's how:



Step one: remove the 6 screws in the black holes. One of them was hidden under a sticker saying "Cannot be returned if removed" or something. I think it's out of warranty anyway. When I peeled that it left a "VOID" residue, which I took off by rubbing with a pencil eraser and my thumb.



I flipped open the top. You gotta be careful to do this in the right direction so the power LED doesn't get pulled on. Most of the guides I saw online say to free the LED from the lid of the case, but I prefer to leave it there and be careful not to let the case halves move too much. Look forward to me breaking it in my next post.

The next step is to remove the shield. There are a bunch of screws to take out, including the one I've circled and labelled "1", which was glued in and pretty hard to get out. There was also a bit of metal folded over the shield which I had to bend back, labelled "2" in the second picture. The area marked "3" is what we're interested in:



These are the region jumpers. This being a PAL console, JP3 is connected, setting the system to 50Hz. JP2 is also connected, setting it to "Not Japan" region. This combination sets the console to PAL. I broke the connection on JP3 with a Stanley knife, which switches the console over to 60Hz Not Japan, aka North America NTSC. Technically an NA console has JP4 connected and JP3 disconnected, but it seems if they're both cut it'll default to 60Hz. I know next to nothing about circuits, but I tried my multimeter across JP4 and although there was resistance they aren't completely disconnected, so maybe that's why? Dunno. To set it to Japan I'd have to cut JP2 and bridge JP1. Dunno what the capacitor on JP1 is for, but the guides online reckon it can be removed without problems.

As it turns out, JP3 and 4 are connected on the lower side (of this photo), as are JP1 and 2. At the top, the two outer jumpers go to the same place as each other (ground), and the two inner go to another (+5V). If everything is disconnected, you get not-Japan 60Hz. Connect JP3 only and you get not-Japan 50Hz. Connect JP1 only (which you can do to the upper side of JP3, since it goes to the same place) and you get Japan 60Hz. Connect both JP1 and JP3 and you get Japan 50Hz, which is not a real region and so can be ignored. So to make a 3 position region switch, you connect the upper side of JP3 to the middle terminal, and the lower sides of JP1 and JP3 each to one of the other terminals. In the middle position, nothing is connected (NA region). In either of the other positions, one jumper is connected to ground giving either PAL or JP. For now though, I've got an NA region console. I closed it back up and started testing.



Here are my region modding tools. Not shown is the multimeter which was really helpful in making sure I'd actually severed the jumper. The headband magnifier makes you look like a total dork (which you are if you're region modifying your MD), but it's pretty good for avoiding cutting more than you want to.



Here's what I got when I fired it up with Streets of Rage II, confirming I'd set it to NA region. That worked, but the image quality is hugely disappointing: it looks like an emulator filter. Gross. I didn't get this smoothing in PAL, for whatever reason.



Here's Sonic 2, with a close-up of the text showing that same unwelcome smoothing, and at the bottom the same screen running at 50Hz and looking great. I have no idea why changing the frame rate messes up the picture like this. On the plus side, the image is properly centered, unlike in PAL where the left edge is cut off, and flickering works properly instead of getting the combing I showed a few posts back.



Here's a screen from Steel Empire. Top: 60Hz, bottom: 50Hz. I think the problem is my TV's upscaler, so I try a different telly:



This is a lot better, but when the demo starts to play showing Sonic 2's splitscreen mode:



It starts out ok, but quickly drops the picture. The text box in the middle says something like "image mode not supported". This was working ok on the other TV, so it was a bit of a surprise. Still, for the most part this TV performs admirably.

So, the region mod works, and I haven't lost colour because I'm using component cables instead of composite. Now I just gotta find time to install the switch.

Last edited by Yimothy; 05-26-2018 at 08:58 AM.
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  #143  
Old 05-26-2018, 07:18 PM
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Sonic 2's two-player splitscreen mode is well known for causing issues when displayed via upscaler boxes like the xRGB-mini Framemeister, so I presume the game is employing some weird hacked-together video trickery that modern TVs and upscalers just can't deal with.

Really enjoyed the run-down on your Mega Drive mod. Please post more pics if/when you install that switch!
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  #144  
Old 05-29-2018, 07:53 AM
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Here's the plan for the Mega Drive 3-way region switch. It's an on-off-on switch, with ground connected to the middle terminal and the two jumper groups (3/4 and 1/2) each on one of the others. The three states are JP3/4 to ground (PAL), neither to ground (NTSC non-JP), JP1/2 to ground (NTSC JP).



Step one is making space for the switch. This probably took me two thirds of the time spent on this, largely because I decided to half-arse it and just cut the case with my diagonal cutters instead of using more appropriate tools. I cut a space in the lower half of the case, but there wasn't enough room to fit the switch without also cutting a space in the upper half, so I rested the upper case on top and marked roughly the edges of the switch body (it's got a lip on it, which is why the scratches are narrower than the switch). I cut another hole, and put it back together. I think in the last photo I actually had it right, but the way the edge was gaping made me think I needed to make some more space and I wound up making a bigger hole. I think the problem was in fact that when I used the cutters to make my initial two cuts at the edges of the lower hole it bent the case slightly (the two white marks under the switch are I think stretched plastic). I was doing this not long after putting the kids to bed, and the noise of those big cuts was keeping one of them awake as well as distorting the plastic, so I switched to smaller cuts and spent ages nibbling.



Here's the circuitry. I scratched out the other connected jumper (JP2) and clipped off the capacitor (internet says you don't need it, which I hope is true) while the soldering iron was heating up. I did the switch end first, figuring it was the easier bit to do and the cheaper component to replace, so it would be less of a problem if I had to redo it if I stuffed up somehow later on. I was going to try to remove the capacitor legs, but I realised that hooking the wires on to them would make soldering them in place easier, which is why I put the yellow wire to the JP1 ground instead of the JP3 one. There was no pin sticking out of JP3/4, so I taped the wire down temporarily to hold it in place. After soldering it I bridged the jumpers with my multimeter and moved the switch about, and things seemed to be connected how I wanted, so it was time to put the case back on and test it.



I didn't want to find out I'd made the wire too short, so I made it way too long instead. I coiled it up in the free space at the lower left. The three circled areas are the moving parts in the console (aside from the cart slot flap). Notice that I've managed to run my wire straight through one of them (the reset button). The cross is where I re-routed it through once I realised I'd done that.



When you put the case back together, you gotta make sure the on/off switch and the volume slider on the case match up to their counterparts on the motherboard. In this photo, the volume is at the bottom of the slot but the control for it is at the top.



I had the bright idea to put some black electrical tape around the edges of the hole I'd made to obscure the damage. The plan had been that the lip on the switch would cover it, but as I mentioned I made the hole bigger than I meant to. I think it worked out ok, though if the tape comes loose it's gonna look pretty rubbish. Also pictured here is the other switch I considered using. Fitting that to the case would have taken a couple seconds with a drill, but I didn't want the big toggle poking out.



I fired up Streets of Rage II to test it out and got the region lock message, since the switch was in the middle position. So far so good! With it on, I switched over to PAL, which got me the nice sharp pixels on the right (the colour blowout on the left is from the photo, not the TV).



I noticed when I was switching from PAL (left) to NTSC (right) the resolutions were changing. I'm not sure why my TV interprets 50Hz as interlaced and 60 as progressive, but this maybe explains why PAL gets a better base image but has the combing effect when it's supposed to flicker. An interlaced signal is one which transmits two half-images on alternating horizontal lines that are combined to make one image. The Genesis runs at 240p by not combining the image and having them replace each other instead, giving a lower resolution and a higher frame rate. A PAL Mega Drive is supposed to run at 288p by the same method (PAL has a higher vertical resolution), but the TV for some reason is displaying it interlaced. Since most of the time one frame is almost identical to the next, the result of this is just a base image at higher resolution (720x576 instead of 720x240), which my TV's upscaler then distorts less as it converts it to match the TV's vertical resolution at a 4:3 aspect ratio. The PAL signal gets combed because flicker is achieved by having something appear and disappear in alternating frames. Since the TV is interlacing the signal by displaying alternating frames next to each other, the result is a combed sprite.

I'm not sure why it gives it a 720 horizontal resolution, but as I understand it analogue TV signals have no specific horizontal resolution, they just change colour however often they need to as they draw each line.



I switched to JP and hit reset, causing the game to boot as Bare Knuckle II, the Japanese version. Switching to PAL got me the English title screen. Switching to NTSC got the English title screen rolling. SORII is one of the rare games that was optimised for 50Hz, meaning the PAL version runs at the same speed as the NTSC one, but running that version at 60Hz makes the screen roll. The last image is something I noticed about the way my TV is interpreting the PAL signal: Y Signal, who isn't moving, is pixellated. Axel, who is moving, is blurred similar to when the console is set to NTSC. Not sure what's happening here, but I'm guessing it's the result of him being in slightly different positions in the two frames used to make up the interlaced image. I've also noticed blurring when the screen scrolls.



Here's Sonic 2 split screen. I think the console is actually putting out an interlaced signal for this. Note that the 60Hz image is now 720x480i instead of 720x240, and doesn't have the filtered look any more.



I tried out Wonder Boy in Monster Land with the console set to JP and learned something I didn't know: it seems that Mark III games (the Japanese version of the SMS) have Sega logos built in. The Master System has a bios which displays the Sega logo on boot (I don't usually see that these days because the converter for the Mega Drive doesn't have it). The Mark III has no bios, so I guess they built it into the games. This purple screen flashes light and dark a few times before the (Japanese) title screen appears. The third image is after I switched back to 50Hz, getting the nice pixels. They seem to be sharper on SMS games than Mega Drive ones. PAL WBiML cannot normally be controlled with a Mega Drive controller, but the JP version can. By booting in JP and switching to PAL I was able to keep using the MD controller, which is nice.

The boot screens seem to differ between games. The last image here is the screen when you boot Psychic World, which never came out in Japan. I was hoping it would have Japanese text that I could get the readers of my Let's Play to translate for me, but no such luck.



Here's Wonder Boy III Monster World II. The Sega logo in this one slides up from the bottom of the screen. This game has an FM soundtrack, but it only plays on a console set to JP, even though it never came out there.



In my last post I tried out a different TV. Here it is again. The first screen is what I got on running the machine at 50Hz. The TV doesn't recognise it. When I fired up Sonic 2 at 60Hz, started versus mode (at which point the image dropped) and then switched to PAL, it started working. Dunno why it can do 576i but not 480i. The bottom left image shows a shield with working transparency and no blurring in 720x240 60Hz on this TV. The bottom right is the shield in 720x576i 50Hz two player mode on the same TV, with the comb effect (it looks horizontally stretched because the vertical resolution is doubled, making everything shorter).

So there's no perfect solution for me so far. The best image for the most part is from the second TV in 60Hz, but it won't work with the PAL signal or the interlaced NTSC, which is annoying. Plus it's way smaller than the other TV. To be honest, the blurring which is so gross up close and in photos isn't so bad from the couch. I think I'll be leaving it hooked up to the first TV and using the switch on a case-by-case basis.

I'd never really noticed the difference in speeds between 50Hz and 60Hz before, but when you've got a little switch going back and forwards on the fly it's painfully obvious, particularly in the music. I may have ruined PAL for myself.
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  #145  
Old 05-29-2018, 10:23 AM
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The only way I can hook up to my current 4K TV with a Genesis is by using a SCART cable and component converter. The TV recognizes the 240p signal, but has issues with "hitching". I can't remember if it's skipping a frame or elongating one, but either way, it's very distracting. This doesn't occur when using a Wii set to 240p in Mednafen. I suspect the Genesis just uses a weird signal that this Sammy doesn't like.

Also, this same converter box works just fine on my old Sony Bravia, but that doesn't explicitly handle 240p, it just treats the signal as 480i. No hitching, though.
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  #146  
Old 06-15-2018, 09:16 PM
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Today I finally learned how to use Swiss to force GameCube games to display in 480p, or at least those that don't already have the option by default. The Resident Evil '02 remake looks much sharper forced into progressive scan (albeit still a bit blurry because of its weird 512x448 internal resolution).
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  #147  
Old 06-17-2018, 11:06 AM
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An interesting note about the original GC release of Resident Evil 4: while the game does support progressive scan, the only video output option in this version is a letterboxed 4:3 aspect with black bars on the top and bottom of the image. This wasn't a big deal for most folks playing RE4 on their 4:3 SDTVs back in the day, but it is a problem for me trying to upscale the video through a Framemeister because now the image is severely windowboxed on all sides of my HDTV. I could probably mess with my FM's profile settings to zoom the image for a better fit, but that would likely worsen the Cube's already-soft component signal.

Obviously there are HD remasters of RE4 available, but I thought it was kind of ironic that the original version's ambitious letterboxed presentation (presaging the HD revolution by a couple of years) would ultimately prevent it from being upscaled effectively on modern televisions.
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  #148  
Old 06-21-2018, 11:51 PM
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Default GameCube triple post, oh yes

Extrems' latest update for his Game Boy Interface somehow manages to pull an even sharper 240p video signal out of the GB Player hardware, resulting in noticeable improvement to overall image sharpness and alleviating most of the color bleed I'd been seeing around red areas.

FirebrandX's Framemeister profiles have also been updated specifically to work in tandem with one of the new xRGB-specific builds of GBI (running via component video on NTSC consoles).

In short, it's been a very good year for GC homebrew!
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  #149  
Old 06-22-2018, 01:18 AM
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Dang. I managed to get the Game Boy Interface to work with my GameCube, but it took a lot more work than I hoped. Not really looking forward to doing it all over again for an improved version of the software. Would the improved visuals even make a difference if your Cube maxes out at S-video?

I just wish my stinkin' modded GameCube actually ran burned discs. The Xeno is in there and it's recognized by the system, BUT copies of Swiss on disc still won't run... I've got to run the GBI from a modified save cartridge, and there's barely room on the cart for anything else. Annoying.

EDIT: Wait! It works! It really, really works! I just wasn't burning the discs at the proper speed! Gosh, I wish I would have known that a year ago when I did the mod. I've got Swiss on a disc now, and... I have no earthly idea what to do with it. At least I can access the Game Boy Interface without having to pop in Agent Under Fire first. I'd prefer to have it on the same disc as Swiss, but feh.

Last edited by ArugulaZ; 06-22-2018 at 02:59 AM.
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  #150  
Old 06-22-2018, 07:54 AM
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Oh, nice, I will have to give the updated version a shot.

While it's pretty limiting, I've been launching the software from a memory card. I get the software on there using a hacked Wii, and use the Twilight Princess exploit to kick it off. I'm a cheapskate, what can I say?
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